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What Happened in the African Fashion Industry this Week

This week, Pharrell Williams made a dazzling debut at La Maison de l'UNESCO, unveiling his Spring/Summer 2025 collection for Louis Vuitton amidst a flurry of anticipation. The collaboration with creative collective Air Afrique set an exhilarating tone for the show, promising to redefine the future of fashion through innovative design and artistic vision.


Event



Kenyan workers check clothes made for export at the United Aryan Export Processing Zone (EPZ) factory, operating under the U.S. African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA), in Ruaraka district of Nairobi, Kenya October 26, 2023. REUTERS/Thomas Mukoya

Pharrell Williams unveiled his debut Spring/Summer 2025 collection for Louis Vuitton at La Maison de l'UNESCO. A significant highlight of the event was the collaboration between the creative collective Air Afrique and Louis Vuitton. This partnership set the tone for the show, with Air Afrique and art critic Simon Njami presenting an inspiring prelude to Pharrell Williams' new collection. The collaboration promised to reinvent the future of fashion, blending innovative design with artistic vision.


 



 



Economic



The South African apparel industry has welcomed new government regulations that will impose higher costs on Chinese retailers like Shein and Temu. These regulations will tax batches of parcels below R500 at a rate of 45% plus VAT, aligning them with the rates local retailers pay. Michael Lawrence, executive director of the National Clothing Retail Federation (NCRF), expressed approval, noting the urgent need for such measures. The NCRF and Southern African Clothing and Textile Workers Union (Sactwu) have been advocating for this change to address the unfair competition posed by these foreign retailers. Temu responded, asserting that their competitive prices result from supply chain efficiencies, not tax loopholes. Further comments from Temu and Shein are awaited regarding the new regulations.




 



Economic


In Dakar's suburbs, Seynabou Sarr's second-hand shop bustled with activity as shoppers sought affordable yet elegant attire for Tabaski, West Africa's largest Muslim festival. With new boubous costing up to 250,000 CFA francs ($405), many turned to Sarr's shop, where they could find luxurious garments for much less. Sarr, known as Nabou, has successfully grown her business since launching online in 2018, now boasting over 80,000 TikTok followers. Shoppers like Abdou Fall and Khady Djiba found stylish, budget-friendly options, proving that second-hand fashion can rival new outfits in quality and appeal.

 

Brand





Vintage With Love, a South African fashion and literacy charity, opened a new store in Johannesburg on June 18, 2024. Founded in 2013 by Leigh Ord and Jacquie Myburgh Chemaly, the charity has raised over R8 million for literacy programs. Located at 102 Corlett Drive, Melrose, the new shop offers stylish second-hand clothing, promoting sustainable fashion and supporting educational causes. Managing Director Tracey van Gass highlighted the dual impact of reducing fashion waste and funding literacy initiatives, inviting Joburgers to join their "sharity" economy.



 

Showcase


The V&A Museum in London is currently hosting "Naomi: In Fashion," an exhibition dedicated to supermodel Naomi Campbell. Featuring over 100 outfits and accessories, the exhibition curated by Campbell herself spans her illustrious career from the 1980s to the present day. It includes personal items and highlights her significant role in promoting diversity in fashion. Alongside her journey, the exhibition also showcases pieces from Nigerian and African brands such as Kenneth Ize and Torisheju Dumi, enriching the cultural tapestry of the collection. The exhibition bravely addresses pivotal moments in Campbell's life, including her 2007 court case and the profound impact of losing close friends. Open from June 22, 2024, to April 2025, "Naomi: In Fashion" promises a deeply personal and enlightening exploration of Campbell's enduring influence on the fashion industry.


 

Showcase



Nigerian influencers Diana Eneje and Bella Okagbue joined the global launch of Lancôme's new Lip Idôle balm. The campaign shoot took place at the exclusive Lancôme Idôle House in London. Selected as part of the Lancôme Friends of The House program, Eneje and Okagbue proudly represented Africa in this prestigious campaign.


 

As the fashion world continues to evolve, these stories from Pharrell Williams' visionary debut to the cultural richness of Naomi Campbell's exhibition at the V&A Museum underscore a transformative period in the industry. From regulatory shifts in South Africa's apparel sector to the rise of sustainable fashion initiatives like Vintage With Love, each narrative reflects a dynamic landscape where creativity, sustainability, and inclusivity converge to shape the fashion of tomorrow.


 

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