Made From Where? Africa’s Role in Global Luxury Fashion
- Clearly Invincible
- Jun 25
- 7 min read
Clothes carry stories. They carry with them the inspirations from the designers, the exposure of materials they are made of, but also those of the hands that put them together. Far from the ateliers of Italy and the runways of Milan, the hands behind luxury fashion are increasingly found in Africa. From the tanneries of Ethiopia to the cotton factories in Kano, the continent’s raw materials and skilled hands are essential to the global fashion economy, often without fanfare or full acknowledgment.
This dynamic of invisible labor is a deliberate arrangement shaped by exploitative systems and legal loopholes. As luxury brands strive to meet the growing demand for high-end products, they increasingly turn to Africa for its raw materials and craftsmanship. However, despite these materials being sourced and often processed on the continent, the financial benefits do not always reach the individuals who contribute the most to the creation of these products.
From cotton to leather, African industries account for an incredible portion of the global market for sourcing fashion materials, including in the luxury sector. Africa produces nearly 10% of the world’s cotton, with 37 countries involved in its cultivation. Yet, around 90% of that raw cotton is exported—mostly to Asia—for processing, leaving little value retained on the continent. Despite Africa’s undeniable contribution to the luxury fashion industry, its presence often remains understated. The continent accounts for around 16% of the market and just 1.9% of global manufacturing.
Local artisans also add to the fashion industry by using unique crafting techniques to create clothes and accessories. In a factory in Kano, for instance, its exterior beaten down by age and a lack of maintenance, workers march around in perfect sync to complete the production cycle. This cotton, while used in local production, is exported to various countries for garment production. Similarly, Lesotho has a vertically integrated spin-yarn dye-weave textile mill that specialises in the manufacture of denim fabrics. These garment plants export more than 98% of their production to North America, supplying brands like Levis Strauss.
However, even when brands source such labour from African artisans, the label might still read ‘Made in Italy’. This is mainly because EU laws generally determine the country of origin based on the location of the final production or processing stage, even if raw materials originate or initial production occurs elsewhere. This principle, also known as ‘substantial transformation’, means that the last significant change in form, function, or commercial value determines the origin of a product.
The appeal of the ‘Made in Italy’ label is deeply rooted in its association with quality and luxury. Italian-made goods have long been celebrated for their attention to detail, superior materials, and innovative design. As a result, consumers perceive the label as a guarantee of high-end, reliable products that represent sophistication and status. This reputation has been carefully cultivated over decades, with Italian artisans and manufacturers combining traditional techniques with modern technology. While ‘Made in Africa’ might carry an appealing sense of novelty or exoticism, it lacks the same ingrained reputation for reliability and luxury that ‘Made in Italy’ commands.
Structural issues such as political instability, tax evasion, and inadequate infrastructure have long plagued Italian businesses, leading some to relocate their operations abroad. Despite attempts to curb this trend, like the Italian government’s bill to prevent companies from claiming the ‘Made in Italy’ label if they move production elsewhere, the realities of global competition cannot be ignored. Moreover, concerns about labor conditions remain pressing. Investigations have revealed that many luxury goods bearing the ‘Made in Italy’ label are made by immigrant workers under poor conditions, often overlooked by both the law and consumers. This discrepancy highlights a growing contradiction between the glamorous image of Italian luxury and the labor realities that fuel its production.
While African artisans contribute significantly to the creation of high-end goods, from intricate beading to leatherworking and textile weaving, these artisans frequently remain behind the scenes. This lack of acknowledgment perpetuates an uneven distribution of wealth in the global fashion industry, despite Africa’s undeniable input into its success.
In 2017, as reported by The Guardian, Louis Vuitton’s shoes, though often stamped with the prestigious ‘Made in Italy’ label, actually underwent a significant portion of their manufacturing process in Romania. The brand’s operations in the Transylvanian town of Cisnadie produced all but the soles of many of their high-end footwear. The shoes were carefully crafted before being sent to Italy to have the soles affixed, fulfilling the requirements for the ‘Made in Italy’ label under EU law.
Similarly, in Morocco, numerous fashion houses and global brands source finished leather goods entirely from the country. Morocco’s leather industry is renowned for its rich heritage and exceptional craftsmanship. Cities like Fez and Marrakech are home to ancient tanneries, such as the Chouara Tannery, where crafters employ traditional methods passed down through generations. These tanneries produce high-quality leather products, including handbags, shoes, jackets, and accessories, which are then exported worldwide.
Beyond supplying international labels, Morocco is also home to its own creative industry, housing numerous luxury fashion brands. Some of these brands include Maison Sara Chraibi, known for intricate, couture-level detailing; Nadia Chellaoui, whose vibrant leather accessories double as wearable art; and Zyne, a footwear brand that reimagines babouches (traditional Moroccan slippers) for the modern woman.
As the dynamics of sourcing evolve, the contrast between ‘quiet sourcing’ and transparent brand storytelling becomes significant. Quiet sourcing allows brands to emphasize the final product while concealing the complexities of its creation, often leaving the labor conditions and supply chain hidden. On the other hand, transparent storytelling opens up the process, revealing the contributions of artisans in Africa and highlighting the often overlooked labor behind luxury goods. While transparency builds consumer trust and calls for more ethical production, it also exposes the contradictions within the industry, such as unequal wealth distribution and poor working conditions.
This shift towards transparency could redefine luxury fashion by shifting focus to the people and processes that shape these products. For Africa, whose raw materials and skilled labor are crucial to the industry, this narrative offers an opportunity to showcase the value and craftsmanship that often go unnoticed.
In 2020, Dior took a step towards more transparency by spotlighting Moroccan artisans and their contributions to its Cruise Collection. In Nigeria, the leather industry has also begun to receive well-deserved acknowledgement from global fashion houses, much like Morocco's established presence.
Nigerian brands, such as Winston Leather, have experienced significant growth in recent years. Winston Leather, based in Kano, has been supplying high-quality leather to luxury brands like Louis Vuitton and Ralph Lauren.
CEO, Winston Udeagha, told Vogue Business:
‘What people don’t know is that much of the leather used around the world actually originates in Africa.’
Many global luxury brands champion sustainability and ethical sourcing. However, the reality often starkly contrasts their public narratives. Workers in Africa who supply materials like leather and cotton and engage in crafts such as beadwork and dyeing frequently earn below minimum wage.
For instance, in Ethiopia, garment workers producing items for top fashion brands earn an average of just $26 per month, making it challenging to afford basic necessities. Despite this, luxury fashion houses sell a single bag for thousands of dollars, reaping substantial profits from the labor of these underpaid workers. Even when these products are made in Italy, workers are still at risk of being abused. Dior and Armani were under investigation in 2024 for exploiting immigrant workers in Italy.
Culture has always been dynamic, and part of what keeps it alive is sharing through exchanging ideas, practices, and knowledge across generations and borders. This is where skill transfer comes in, enabling communities to preserve, adapt, and grow their cultural practices in meaningful ways. However, skill exploitation occurs when knowledge and expertise are extracted without fair compensation or support, leaving the local community at a disadvantage.
In some cases, these communities are left entirely out of the conversation. When they don’t speak for themselves, their contributions are erased or undervalued, preventing local industries from growing and gaining the recognition they deserve. Rather than empowering local production, skill exploitation often results in the extraction of value without reciprocity.
To hold brands accountable, there must be policy pressure on labeling laws. Current loopholes allow luxury companies to obscure the origins of materials and labor behind elite tags like ‘Made in Italy’, masking the contributions of African workers. Transparent labeling would give consumers the information they need to demand better recognition and a fairer industry.
In 2022, the EU’s Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles proposed that Digital Product Passports become mandatory for all textiles sold in Europe by 2030. These passports would consolidate key details, such as a product’s origin, material makeup, supply chain, sustainability profile, and recyclability, into one accessible source, pulling data from across the industry. However, since then, little progress has been made, and the conversation has largely stalled.
Consumers are not powerless in this equation. By choosing brands that disclose their full supply chains and centering ethics alongside aesthetics, customers can help tip the scales.
Meanwhile, African countries are taking steps to protect their intellectual property and traditional knowledge. National policies in South Africa and Kenya aim to secure legal recognition for local artisans and innovations. On a global scale, treaties like WIPO Treaty on Intellectual Property, Genetic Resources, and Associated Traditional Knowledge (GRATK) push for transparency in the use of indigenous resources.
These efforts collectively contribute to a more equitable and sustainable framework for protecting indigenous knowledge and empowering local brands, ensuring they receive the recognition and support they deserve in the global marketplace. For the global fashion industry to truly evolve, it must stop treating African contribution as raw material and start seeing it as creative capital.
Join us in shaping the future of African fashion. Sign Up to become a part of the Clearly Invincible fashion community and for a consultation to aid your fashion entrepreneurship journey.
Fashion Services: Illustrations | Collection Planning | Portfolio's | Consultations
Comments